Croatia: Old Town Zadar
Our intention for this trip was to rent small Airbnb’s in the heart of pedestrian areas. That is just what we got in Zadar! Looking out the window to the right, we had a view of the Roman Forum. One of the most visited “attractions” in Zadar, I was enthralled. It took me a bit before I looked out the window in the other direction… I was surprised to see we also had a view of the Adriatic Sea!
Zadar is the oldest continuously inhabited city in all of Croatia. Commissioned by Augustus, the first Roman Emperor. This is the largest Forum in Croatia. Noted by dates inscribed in stone outside the structure, work was started in 1 BC and completed in 3AD. The Bell Tower stands high overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Now surrounded by cafes and restaurants on one two sides, it continues to be a gathering place.
One of the beauties of staying near any clock or bell tower, is the sounds of ringing bells filling the air. From our studio flat, we could hear the bells ringing throughout the day and night.
With our friends spending the night in Zadar, we went looking for their accommodations. Nikola had the address and started walking. Slightly confused, my phone map said we were walking in the wrong direction. That often happens when tall buildings block the signal. When we reached the area that should have been the apartment, there was no such place. Only restaurants, shops and parking were at the address. Using my map, we turned and walked the other way… we found the flat in between two busy restaurants in a narrow alleyway. From the outside, it didn’t look like much. Once we opened the door, we LOVED the room. A very comfortable looking bed (confirmed by Nikola later), a small kitchen with a dining room table. Despite its proximity to the restaurants, it was silent in the apartment. Except for the lack of view, I preferred this space to the one we rented. This one, I got for Nikola as an “Instant Book” on Airbnb. Booked it and an hour later he was inside the room. Very simple!
Strolling along the waterfront on Obala kralja Petra Kresimira IV, we happened upon two special places. One we got to thoroughly enjoy, the other we would have needed to return after dark but that never happened. Next time… In this video, you can hear the “Sea Organ”. Designed by a local architect, it was intended to be a greeting to cruise ship passengers. Zadar has become a top Croatian cruise port recently.
Consisting of 35 pipes, architect Nikola Basic created a design that aligned with the tides of the Adriatic Sea. As the boats cross into the harbor or anywhere near for that matter, the current sends the water through the pipes creating music. It was pretty fun to hear. It really did sound like an organ.
Much like my favorite Malaga, this is a mostly pedestrian area. Walking the alleyways exploring… seeing the historical buildings with influences from different ruling countries, is fascinating. Depending on the time of day, the light changes (or enhances) the look of some of the notable architecture. This Bell Tower could be seen from all over the town, which was nice because I always knew which way I needed to go to find “home”.
After finding Nikola’s apartment, we headed to our restaurant. Everywhere we passed had cafes for outdoor eating. Even the string of laundry didn’t detour from the ambiance. Any time of day or night, many can be found enjoying coffee in the cafes. Fellowship is a large part of the culture.
While planning this trip, I found a restaurant that intrigued me. Bruschetta is the name and bruschetta is what was served. Nikola had a trio of seafood pieces that looked amazing (and I forgot to get a photo). Barry doesn’t like seafood and feeling pressured to order in this busy restaurant, chose the bacon bruschetta. It actually looked quite good before he picked at it… in his mind, this is not a meal. This is probably his first experience with bruschetta… my reason for wanting to dine here is the reviews and the restaurant’s online menu stated they had gluten-free bread for their dishes. That was not the case, so I had an octopus risotto. Oh my… was it ever good! The risotto itself was amazing but the large chunks of octopus really made this dish special!
Coffee always tastes better with a view. The one thing I will never get used to…the size of coffee in European or Balkan countries. Every morning, I get up and have a piping hot, large cup to start my day. No matter what I order on vacation, it is necessary to order more than one. We are told that the coffee is stronger, so you only need one small cup, but it’s the process of relaxing and sipping that I enjoy…
So much character on the pathways of Zadar. Old relics can be found in the most unlikely of places. Turn the corner and enter a plaza filled with items used in the old days. This area has experienced war and earthquakes, which has changed the look over many years. The arched tunnel leads to the port on the opposite side from where we saw the sea organ. Old Town is located on a small peninsula.
Deciding to check out what’s outside the walls of the Old Town, we discovered a whole new world. The walking bridge links the new to the old. However, even the “new” is not modern. The structures were built much more recently, and it is where much of the necessities can be found. Inside the walls one can find basics in small markets but it is mostly restaurants, cafes and souviner shops!
Often referred to as the “People’s Square”, this area holds much historical significance. For generations… from the medieval times to the present, this has been a gathering place for locals. It is basically the place where all the gossip can be discussed. This sixteenth century clocktower overlooks the restaurants. In this square, you can find the City Loggia (where citizens could meet with rulers) and the City Guard. Initially built as Platea Magenta meaning the center of public life, it is truly the hub of Zadar to this day.
Even the most nondescript buildings hold beautiful sanctuaries… Something drew me to look inside the door of this very small church. Once I saw inside, I was so thankful I took the time. Definitely simpler than the ornate architecture found in European houses of worship!
In this area near the forum, we found many items left over from the Roman era. Not wanting to disturb the pieces, over the years they have been protected.
Different angles provide a fresh perspective on the relics and structures. This really is a special place… when you sit back and think how old the things around you are. Odd to think that our condo in Tahoe is 50 years old and is considered ancient!
Considering the history that surrounded us, we just had to take a selfie… we broke our “only one a day” rule. Sometimes you just have to!
As the sun was setting, the lights hitting the building changed the “look”. Lights began to turn on in the surrounding buildings. The spire looked regal in the end of day sunlight…
Sometimes I forget that beautiful sunsets can be seen from land… not only cruise ships! End of day brought orange colored skies. My favorite colorful line in the water did not disappoint!
Last view of the day… our top tourist spot to visit is all lit up. After the sun set, the lights brought new life to the surrounding architecture. From our studio, we heard the church bells ring throughout the night… Almost an afterthought, I’m glad we added Zadar to our vacation! Tomorrow… Split, Croatia.
